Lawns

Hi, this is definitely different to the weed I originally posted about.

Do bumblebees not like clover? I have 1 buff tailed bee that visits but most are the common carder bees and loads of hoverflies. Also what's the hoverfly/hover bee that looks like it fights with other bees in mid air?

Yes this is what it is it looks like! Thanks for the response. I am thinking I will go out and lightly scarify? I will be going abroad for the month of July. Am I crazy to start any treatment now (as someone will mow the grass once a week when i am gone but wont go to the level of commitment...

How mature was the grass when you added fertiliser? Many fertilisers will damage young grass.Leaving the area 'somewhat soggy' would also not be beneficial, especially if the grass is young and hasn't developed a good root system yet.Was the pond liner removed/punctured before it was filled...

It will be difficult to eradicate the weeds completely, as seed can lie in the ground for years before germinating. Preparation of the ground will have disturbed them and watering of course, helps them grow.

Probably 3m x 2.5m front lawn. 2 holly bushes under window, laurel hedge down left. Rhododendron top left that's faded. Lavender along front and down right side. Silver birch tree that sparrows love going into and eating the flies.

From what you have said and the concern it seems to engender I would be inclined to just mow it - and then see how it turns out. Other decisions can come later but whilst you're deliberating it is continuing to grow.

Jeez - there's a newt under the weed web - can't leave it there and the pond is still just an idea...

Hello allI hope you are well.I recently had a Dwarf Cherry Tree removed from the Middle of my Front Lawn.The resulting Damage was an area approximately 4' x 2'.I Filled the Hole with Top Soil, Watered it to help it Settle, Topped it up, Watered it, Levelled it and then Seeded it.This...

A different cause, but our lawn was almost non-existent (badly-laid on top of builders rubble) and wiped out during last year's UK heatwave. It's never looked so good since. Lawns have cycles, in my experience.

You just need a fine soil and sand mix and to maintain the lawn through mechanical and correct fertiliser treatments through the year, including irrigation in the summer. Normally you would do some type of mechanical work in the late Summer to early Autumn depending on weather then seed and...

Soak area you intend to work on night before. I have lots of dasies but like shiney it looks ok from a distance. My 30 yearold mower (like new) deals with it very well.

I thought that too @JWK . Did you notice that the parts of the lawn that had grass the mower had actually produced stripes on?

Well I think you could incorporate some soil improver if its really claggy clay. How big is the area? You could need quite a lot perhaps?

I just think the grass got killed by dog pee last summer during the drought and has struggled to come back, the winter and recent rains has caused the area to puddle for short periods and allowed algae to form, hence the green scum.I'd just buy a few turves and dig it out, if the same spot...

I’d estimate that the lawn is around 50sqm, and with narrow access, so heavy machinery isn’t really an option. I think I’ll leave it for now, and give it a good forking in autumn. Thanks all

An old gardener with a better garden than mine once saw me struggling to eradicate moss from my lawn. He told me to put sharp sand on then rake it. So I did. The moss just lifted right out no bother.

that’s great news. It’s much easier once you work it out as above. All you need to do now is work out how best to apply it and a knapsack would insure accurate coverage and easier as you can now work out the flow rates/ width of spread and speed of walk to cover a set distance.width of nozzle...

Hello both, just catching up with this! LTP you're a star! Primo Maxx ii is available here and has to be the solution (combined with re-cultivation and re-sowing of the worst-affected strip in October). Many, many thanks

Be prepared for the rotovator to bounce! If you can, it might be an idea to go over the area with a garden fork at 12" / 30cm spacings too. Just stick it in as far as it will go. This will help with drainage if there's a pan of compacted soil that the rotovator doesn't reach.