Lawns

Calcified seaweed is excellent, I aways used to use it in the past but our local farm suplier stopped selling it so I now rely on liquid feeds.

Nicksun,its called "washboarding" and is rectified by mowing in different directions, presumably after its been rolled flet. Well, according to The Lawn Expert.

Excellent explaination clueless, that sums it up perfectly. I have no moss on my lawn and it drains well so it's not something that I need to do by the sounds of it. Thanks for taking the time to post that, cheers. :thumb:

Good tip. Will have a hunt around. How deep do i want to go with the screened topsoil and should i add sharp sand to it/compost ?As i mentioned i am laying onto hard clay.

Looks to me as it just needs a short cut and GOOD scarification by machine. Mine looked exactly like that.

I agree with Natalie, if you rotovate you will chop up the horsetail roots and end up with even more. Its very difficult to get an effective spray because of the waxy surface of the plant, I've heard of people putting poly bags of roundup over the horsetails. But I think its going to be a tough...

I too would leave it- unless you are intending to give it a good drenching regularly, then a light sprinkle does more harm than good. The ( and I think it is the word-seen it bandied about so.......) roots are "adventitious"-in that they grow toward the water, and too little means they grow...

Your lawn will be fine I'm sure. Grass is quite a tough thing, and will green up when the rain comes. The tree stumps will have to go, but make sure you know what you are letting yourself in for! I would water around the stump you are going to remove the night or a couple of nights before,...

I doubt over watering will be the probem, it sounds more like the brown areas need more consolidation, idd lift a corner and have a look.If needs lift them, put some extra soil under and consolidate.

What do people think about this:It's a rubber mulch made from old car tyres. Would it work?

Perhaps an elderly person, with a large garden, would like to "share" it with someone who could do/help with the work?

Ah, good point. Thanks.

Sharp blades and a high cut, try to avoid running the wheels over the new areas, either that or mow around the new areas then tidy up after with shears.

Haha, that's what I'll tell the neghbours if they see me! I live in an urban area in a terraced house and always see foxes roaming about, I've even had one lay down and block the middle of the road when I've been out in my car! They should hopefully stick more to rooting through bin bags than...

Sounds a good plan.I tend to feed every couple of months from early spring until september / october.Usually a week or two bettween the iron and the feed.

Very helpful Kristen - makes sense! I will now do some research as to when I can first apply fertilliser and the like. Rob

For small areas I do as Pro Guard suggests in post #2. To help gremination and to keep the moisture level up, I use small sheets of clear polythene held in place at the corners with golf tees. Hope that is of help.

1. You need to get it level. There is no need to roll it, if you have loosened the soil it will need compacting otherwise it will sink in places. You do this by walking up and down and putting all your weight on your heels. Keep going over it and re-level - throw in loose soil if you get dips....

my parents had this, they let them have one end of the lawn and fed them, very few holes following that. If you don't fancy that I think the security light suggestion works well!

I agree with Larkshall. I've got a Sovereign, self-propelled mower with a 3.5. hp Briggs and Stratton engine which I've had for about five years. It's never been serviced, lives in a damp shed but always starts when it comes out of its winter hibernation.:gnthb: