Apartments/flats.

Discussion in 'Off-Topic Discussion' started by Retired, Dec 8, 2019.

  1. Retired

    Retired Some people are so poor all they have is money

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    Hi,

    Apologies Sandy for missing to reply to your question. :sad:

    Mostly through mortise & tenon joints; wedged and glued with exterior wood adhesive. The bottom plate was securely screwed with heavy gauge long screws. The wide rail sections were biscuit and glued.

    As usual due to our dire climate the timber had twisted causing no end of problems with alignment needing long sash cramps to pull components into line whilst I struggled like mad to do assembly knocking wedges home before the adhesive started to set; I was very careful to do a dry run first but once adhesive is added then mortise & tenon joints put up a fight before going fully home; I was worried using so much force that I didn't split the timber and heaved a sigh of relief as the last wedge was driven home.

    I bought the heavy section metal for the steel decking structure from our local scrap yard the sections about 16' long. These were thoroughly de-rusted then treated with anti rust fluid before painting. Steel railings and posts etc were new steel bought here;

    The UK's Wrought Iron Components Specialists - F H Brundle

    The cost was very reasonable and it was delivered to our door. Cutting and welding done in my workshop; the arc welder is an industrial oil cooled Pickhill Bantam (Oxford) 180A which will weld day in day out without cutting out. As a mechanical engineer I'm used to moving heavy items around and used a winch and ladder to hoist the steel cross members into position; the ladder is rated at 150 kg so well within safe limits although a winch isn't meant for this kind of lifting so isn't recommended by me for a novice to copy.

    Kind regards, Colin.

    Joints_0001.JPG
    Homemade tenon cutting jig; not a job for a novice especially on a home made 4hp saw bench like mine. I feel totally safe in my workshop knowing the dangers I'm exposed to so I never take risks. The jig after a few trial adjustments did a perfect job cutting the tenon cheeks with ease.

    Joints_0002.JPG
    This is planed timber as bought; not only was it cupped but it was also twisted. Joint cutting proved very interesting indeed.

    Joints_0003.JPG
    Tenon cutting under way. The timber was secured to the jig and please note the jig handle to keep my hand well away from the blade; the jig really should have an extension to prevent the blade being exposed on break through but I'm well aware of the danger ensuring both hands were safely out of the way. Please don't copy it is dangerous to a novice who could lose a hand.

    Joints_0004.JPG
    Front door rails just needing slots cutting into the tenons for wedges.

    Joints_0005.JPG
    One side frame glued and wedged tightly; a strong sash cramp was used to pull the joints tightly home before wedging; once the wedges were driven home the sash cramp could be removed without fear of the joint opening up. The wedge ends were then trimmed flush.

    Joints_0006.JPG
    Door rails used as winding strips; I'd say this timber was challenging in fact it was a nightmare. This is the time honoured way of testing timber for winding and any two straight length can be used as seen above. My home made saw bench is a bit of a beast; twin belt drive and immediately up to full speed at the press of its start button.

    Steelwork._0002.JPG
    Some of the heavy steel bought from the scrap yard being cut and de-rusted; I used my Makita jigsaw with steel cutting blade to cut this; not recommended but it worked.

    Steelwork._0003.JPG
    New railing posts being welded adding end plates and mounting brackets.

    Steelwork._0005.JPG
    Close up; I never bodge a job because if a job is done right first time it can then be forgotten. I enjoy such work so it's a pleasure for me.

    Steelwork._0006.JPG

    A mounting bracket before fettling the weld with the angle grinder.
     
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