Cuttings in transparent pots

Discussion in 'General Gardening Discussion' started by PeterS, Oct 25, 2009.

  1. Marley Farley

    Marley Farley Affable Admin! Staff Member

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    Thanks Peter... They were grown in a small heated propagator Peter in a south facing tiny dorma window I have. It is double glazed & tiny a glazed roof area.. It is about 2'.6" high by 2' deep by 18" wide Just perfect to slide ones little propagator in & out as long as it doesn't get too cold... :D I think I did those just in time as I had a couple of fuscias too, but they are struggling with the shorter days.. They do not have good roots showing at all.. One hadn't even made a start as it pulled out clean.. The others are anchored in so watch to see how they do now.. I don't think the daylight is enough now really though..
    Now I know you have a light box Peter & have had success.. So am going to make a hood from Ally & put 4 of the 15watt mini spiral fluorescent bulbs in a line along each end & try that over my propagator now.. A friend is going to make the hood for me & I have an old kichen unit cupboard I can put it in to try.... What do you think Peter... :scratch: Just a thought as I do like to play about & experiment sometimes a bit too... :)
     
  2. PeterS

    PeterS Total Gardener

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    That sounds good Marley. I have had teriffic fun with my light box. Its great for cuttings and early seeds. And also a source of interest during the cold dark winter days, as I currently have small plants in there flowering their heads off.

    [​IMG]

    The key is getting the right light level which must be high, but not so high as to cost a bomb to run. My lightbox is shown above. Its slightly larger than a growbag tray, which is 39" by 15.5", to leave some finger room. I used 3 three feet long fluorescent tubes of 30 watts each. ie 90 watts. This gives a light level of 10,000 lux, at the top of the plants, as measured by a light meter. This is an ideal level of light. Its not that high compared to a summer's day where the light could be anything up to 50,000 lux, but plants saturate at about 20,000 lux and can't utilise any extra light. Also the light is at this level for 14 hours a day (run off a time switch) as opposed to daylight which varies over the day. Your proposed light level would be almost identical in relation to the area.

    To me the ideal bulb is a fluorescent tube, as its slightly more efficient than spiral bulbs and more uniform. You can get the plants closer to the light as well, unless you put the longlife bulbs sideways. The light level will fall off with the distance from the bulb, so its a good idea to have the plants as close to the light as possible. For that reason I put the lights on a suspended ceiling so that I can raise or lower them.

    However your long life bulbs will be very close in light output. And your proposed set up sounds very good. I am sure you know that you also need to have all surfaces either reflective or painted white to reflect the lost light back onto the plants. If you use 60 watts and a timeswitch it shouldn't cost you much more than £3 a month to run.
     
  3. Marley Farley

    Marley Farley Affable Admin! Staff Member

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    Thanks Peter.. Yes the bulbs will be fitted horizontally to get the maximum light output to plants.. Using the old cupboard & shall be able to hang the hood so if I need to I can raise or lower the hood then I can.. I shall use a timer as well.. So I hope it will be successful.. When I get the hood I will post a pic for you Peter & you can give me your opinion too.... :D
     
  4. PeterS

    PeterS Total Gardener

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    Sounds good Marley. I look forward to some pics and feedback.

    I did a little measurement of the light levels in my box last night with the following results.

    0---40.0---40.0
    1---18.0---13.3
    2---14.0----8.0
    3---12.5----5.7
    4---11.0----4.4
    5----9.5----3.6
    6----7.8----3.1

    The first column is the distance below the fluorescent tube in inches. Add an extra half inch to the centre of the tube.
    The second column is the actual light level in lux
    The third column is what I calculate the light level in lux would have been without any reflective surfaces. I am assuming that all the light comes from the centre of the tube which is one inch in diameter, and using the inverse law. Light from a point source follows an inverse square law, but from a long tube follows a simple inverse law.

    You can see that the actual light levels in the second column fall off with distance, but not as much as they would (if my calculations are correct) without any reflective surfaces reflecting lost light back into the box.
     
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