Driving Theory Test

Excellent.

 

Pamsdish - exactly. Last year my car was written off by a guy in a hurry who shunted into the back of me. I got whiplash which is still with me, but not as bad thankfully.

 

Until motorcyclists become responsible road users and actually start to realise its not Ok to overtake on bends, or drive around as if they are the only ones on the road they will continue to die.
If you ever get the chance to visit Rye and Romney Marsh on a Sunday afternoon you will know what I mean.
I think most biker know their time is limited but just like to have fun.

 

The bloke that taught me back in the 70s said, use the brakes they are cheaper than clutches, besides I've not found much breaking to be had these days with modern engines and gearing, it just revs the engine higher.

 

Nah, Kayleigh, you don't want to listen/read all that do-goody-driving rubbish - what you need are some proper driving tips like how to run through on yellow lights and slam the brakes on when someone's tailgatin' yer! Part of your practical learnin' should be filling in compo forms!

 

Well, yes, no, sort of.

If you're slowing down gently, say as you start to approach a junction, then it should be enough to just ease off the throttle and let the resistance of the engine start to slow you down. That's 'engine braking'.

If the gear you're in is too high to offer the resistance you need, then engine braking usually isn't the right way to go. That's why we have a brake pedal.

Riding the clutch in the way you describe will wear the clutch, which is bad. Cost of new brake pads supplied and fitted, about £60 (depending on the car). Cost of replacement worn clutch in the same car, about £200. There is also a chance that your examiner fail you on a major for failing to demonstrate proper control of the vehicle, because the only time you should be letting the clutch slip is when pulling away from a standing start. The rest of the time your gear changes should be smooth transitions from one to the other, with the revs balanced to match the gear you're going into, and a very decisive clutch action so that you only lose drive for the shortest possible time.

If your engine braking is for the emergency procedure of your slowing the car in the event of brake failure, then that's a real can of worms. There's many different opinions out there on what to do in that situation. Some advocate the technique you describe. Many others point out that some engine braking is better than none, and if for any reason having taken it out of one gear you can't get it into the next, then you're freewheeling at the mercy of the nearly useless handbrake.

I have a feeling that what your instructor was trying to explain might have been the procedure for the approach to a steep descent. If you're on the flat at the top of a hill, and you're about to come down, then in plenty of time before you begin the descent, you come down to the lowest gear that works for the speed you intend to do, without ragging the engine, but you do that at the top, on the flat, while you still have plenty of time to stop on the normal brakes. It is relevant in this situation because holding a car on the brakes on a long descent is about the quickest way I know of to warp your brake discs and seize the callipers.

 

We have a fairly steep hill, with a hairpin bend near the bottom, I use this road often.
I've tried coming down in 4th gear, no throttle, I've tried coming down in second gear, no throttle.
I usually end up going down the hill at the same speed, the engine just revs higher in 2nd.
Admittedly years ago changing down used to work, but for some technical reason I've not found it to work with modern cars.
I'm assuming its to do with gear ratios, but I'm out of my depth on that.

 

I think it depends on your car Pete. I once read somewhere that modern turbo diesels have virtually no engine braking. My car does quite well at engine braking, but each vehicle I've driven had been different.

Usually on a steep descent, I still need my brakes, just much less if I'm in a low gear than if I was in a higher gear.

 

I do know that with 4x4s you often get low gear ratios, good for descending hills.
And I do remember getting a real pull back when letting out the clutch years ago when changing down.
It was one of the reasons you needed to be very gentle on the clutch in those days.
Now days its very much easier to get a smooth gear change.

 

Well done Kayleigh and good luck with your practical test.

If I can just add a couple of snippets to the good advice already given on here, as a driver of some 35 years experience.

• Try to develop good anticipation of upcoming hazards and situations. This is something which comes with experience and isn't easy to explain in writing, but can mean, for example, little things like spotting an approaching vehicle still hidden from sight around a bend. How? By noticing the reflection in the windows of a shop or even a house (especially at night when headlights are a giveaway), which tells you a vehicle is approaching. Or noticing that the person in front of you is yapping away on their mobile while simultaneously smoking a cigarette/trying to control an unruly child in the back seat (or all three). They are not giving the road their full attention, at any time they may do something stupid or unexpected. Be prepared for this by dropping back a little, thus giving yourself more time to react.
• Always be prepared for other road users to do something idiotic. This includes cyclists and pedestrians as much as motorised drivers. Don't assume everyone is as sensible as you.

 

Most bikers that live here are responsible riders, they have seen or heard what happens especially during T.T. and Grand Prix when off island riders come to take advantage of the fact they are here in great numbers, and the fact we have no upper speed restriction outside the normal limits. But at the same time we have some foolhardy younger drivers here that think they can race their cars to keep up with the bikers.

I don't think bikers think their time is limited, if they did they wouldn't get on one in the first place. Most of my family are bikers and drivers and they certainly don't think like that.

I think that when both motorcyclists and car drivers pass there tests they should be restricted by engine size for the first year. Quite often they go from a small engine to a large one and aren't used to handling the greater power that these vehicles give, that's when problems and accidents occur.

I'm not sure whether you have a speed restriction on the mainland, but our riders/drivers here are restricted to 50mph for the first year after passing their driving test.

 

There are two reasons< I think, to be a biker.
One, you enjoy the exhilaration of the wind rushing past and the feel of the power and acceleration. The biker with no restrictions and out to have a good time.
This one I understand.

The second, is one that wants to avoid traffic jams, takes risks, weaves in and out of moving traffic and has contempt for all other road users.

I cant see any other reason for getting soaking wet and freezing cold all the time.

 

Have you ever ridden or owned a bike Pete?

 

I just wish motorcyclists wouldn't think they're born with the divine right to weave in and out of traffic in order to make an 'extra lane' at every junction or set of traffic lights. I was taught that one white line on the road = 2 lanes of traffic, two white lines = 3 lanes of traffic. Apparently this is not so - I've learnt over the years that the white line (often conveniently the same width as a motor cycle tyre) actually means 'motorcycle lane'

I learnt to drive in my Dad's old car, where the synchromesh between 1 and 2 was 'kaput' so, when I went to a driving school to learn 'properly' I got both told off and praised for double-declutching - told off because I didn't need to do it, and praised for being able to do it!!

I've driven a turbo diesel for over 10 years and I still use engine braking when the road conditions demand, I've noticed no difference in effectiveness between it and any other type of engine. And, in the unlikely event your brakes should fail (as previously mentioned when my daughter and I were out in her new car), believe me, you'll have no qualms about leaving cogs all over the road as you swiftly dip the clutch and ram the car into the lowest gear possible, especially when there's a wall of trees hurtling towards you. Gearboxes and cars can be replaced .... people can't.