Garlic planting

Discussion in 'Edible Gardening' started by lakeside, Sep 21, 2011.

  1. Phil A

    Phil A Guest

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    Guess its the same as dipping in fungicide. Certified Seed Garlic should be free from onion white rot but you never know.
     
  2. Scotkat

    Scotkat Head Gardener

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    :) We could have snow by the shortest day for planting garlic.

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  3. HarryS

    HarryS Eternally Optimistic Gardener

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    I planted my garlic cloves in the middle of October , 2" deep with a net over to protect from the birds. As per the instructions gleaned from GC.
    I have just had a look and they have started to sprout already , is this OK with winter approaching ?:scratch:
    I presumed they would only show in late winter.
     
  4. shiney

    shiney President, Grumpy Old Men's Club Staff Member

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    There's no problem with that. :dbgrtmb:

    Some of mine is now 6" high.
     
  5. lakeside

    lakeside Gardener

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    Garlic growing

    Just something that interested me. In middle of Oct I planted 25 cloves from a specialised grower in
    Scotland, then as an afterthought planted 4 cloves from a supermarket. No sign of life from the 25, but all the supermarket cloves are now 4" high.
     
  6. Jack McHammocklashing

    Jack McHammocklashing Sludgemariner

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    From Scotland That's your problem

    They will only start go grow when they are waterlogged, covered in three inches of Snow and at 3 degrees in JUNE Down sarf they will be in shock :-)


    Jack McHammocklashing (FIFE)
     
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    • Scrungee

      Scrungee Well known for it

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      They're up!

      The first lot of garlic I planted on 16/10/11 are showing:

      [​IMG]
       
    • Scrungee

      Scrungee Well known for it

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      My Spring planted garlic is about to go in, which will bring my total planting up to:

      Music 211
      Elephant 22
      Cristo 55
      Picardy 22
      Iberian Wight 18
      Purple Wight 20

      So a total of 348 cloves planted, and yes we can eat that amount after deducting seed garlic for next year, some for giveaways, and allowing for failure/wastage.
       
    • kernowdreamer

      kernowdreamer Gardener

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      Mine went in late autumn. I planted pink Chinese or it maybe Chinese Pink, kind of a mild garlic. I dont do a lot as my lot dont care for it.
       
    • Phil A

      Phil A Guest

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      Wish my Leeks were doing as well as the Garlic.

      [​IMG]
       
    • miraflores

      miraflores Total Gardener

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      when will it be ready for harvest?
       
    • Phil A

      Phil A Guest

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      Hey Mira,

      About August is the time to lift them, before the tops die back & you loose them in the soil.

      I ripen them in the sun on the patio, smells great:dbgrtmb:
       
    • boogaloo

      boogaloo Apprentice Gardener

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      Hey Ziggy, slightly off topic, but my leeks look exactly like yours at the mo. They're Musselburghs and I planted them in the autumn. I must admit, they've barely grown in months though I'm not sure what to expect as I'm a novice gardener. They should start growing again in spring, right? :(

      Planted my garlic only a few weeks ago and it's already poking through - marginally surprised, but it has been a very very mild few weeks (incredibly enough) up in my part of Fife.
       
    • davygfuchsia

      davygfuchsia Gardener

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      Not knowing about garlic planting last year, I planted mine in modules at beginning of Feb and planted in a raised bed mid March .I harvested end of August and they were a reasonable size and seemed to store ok .So as last year I am doing the same, they are in and showing green...As some from Wilkos and some local garden centre ..

      Dave
       
    • lakeside

      lakeside Gardener

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      garlic

      soHerb Gardening: Harvesting and Curing Garlic
      August 30, 2011 by admin
      As veteran herb gardeners can attest, harvesting your herbs and storing them for later use is both easy and difficult, depending on the actual herb. As summer winds down, and harvest time nears—if it hasn’t hit already for some, a quick reminder here and there might be handy. Garlic, one of the toughest to judge timing, is both like and unlike the onion, its garden relative.
      Judging Harvest Time
      Many new herb gardeners have a difficult time judging when to harvest this plant. Unlike many other plants, these leaves brown from the ground up. Unlike many other bulb plants, do not wait until the entire stalk is brown. As a general rule, wait until about only five or six of the upper leaves are still green, and the lower leaves are brown before attempting it. Harvesting too early can affect both maturity and storage life. Harvesting too late can cause the bulbs to begin separating from each other and affect storage life. As a rule of green thumb, harvest time is any time between late July and early August, depending on your rainfall. However, dry seasons can cause early maturity, so watch them carefully.
      Roughly a month before maturity, garlic will send up a scape—a woody flower stalk. You might want to remove those to encourage bulb development instead of reproduction. Garlic scapes are great for dishes like stir fry or sauces and omelets if finely minced. Some gardeners
      However—and this is important, do not pull the plant out of the ground by the stalk. If you are unable or unwilling to actually dig the plants out, at least loosen the soil around each plant before lifting. Missing stalks can affect the curing process so necessary before storing your crop for the year.
      Proper Curing
      While onions can be left on the ground to cure, garlic cannot. Immediately remove the plants from direct sunlight and into fully shaded areas with good air flow, such as into a garage or on a deep porch that has areas always in shadow. Leave the entire plant intact: Don’t remove either the roots or the stalks. Both are important in curing garlic. Remove excess dirt by gently dislodging it with your hand. Don’t risk damaging the stalk by shaking the plant or by rinsing it.
      Have a place prepared for curing which can take anywhere from three to six weeks or so, depending on humidity. The spot must be shaded and dry with excellent air flow. Basements or cellars are too damp for good curing. You can hang the plants or place them in single layers. If you must store them overnight in less than ideal conditions, transport them to a shady area outside each day, and be prepared for a longer curing time.
      Wait until all moisture has evaporated from between the wrappers and cloves. You want a very dry, crackly feel to them and brown, wilted stalks and roots. If in doubt, leave them another week or turn fans on them. Commercial growers even remove one or two outer layers to aid internal drying.
      Storing Cured Garlic
      When the bulbs are ready, cut the stalks to about an inch above the bulbs and gently remove any remaining dirt: Again, don’t rinse them. It defeats the purpose of curing the plants.
      Save the largest bulbs for replanting about a month prior to the first hard frost in your area. In the south when winter is milder, and frost comes later, check with your local garden shop for good timing in your area.
      Hang the bulbs in net sacks that prevent moisture from accumulating. The storage area temperature that is ideal is about 35 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit. Bulbs can last from four to eight months, sometimes longer. If you have some of that garlic harvest left after that time, consider grinding into powder; it sometimes helps extend reasonable life.
      rry for the long pasted post, but could not find a clickable link:
       
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