How do I protect new planted conifers against wind damage?

Hi everyone,
I recently asked about planting ten 7' tall root balled Thuja smaragd in shallow soil over clay subsoil.Having taken advice, I dug a large, deep hole and planted the trees.
My next task is to protect them against the winter gales where I live, which is high up in the South Wales hills.
I've read that I should not drive a stake through the root ball, and it would be difficult anyway, because the stake would have to be close to the main trunk and I don't see how I could hit it into the ground without damaging the tree.
One way around this is to use two stakes that are clear of the root ball and connected by a batten or some such, with a strap tying the trunk to the batten.
But again there's risk of damage, because the batten would go through the tree near the centre in order to be tied to the trunk. Perhaps a cord could be used instead of the batten.
The completely different idea I have, given the strength of the gales up here, is to enclose each tree on three sides with a trellis structure, the legs of which would be driven into the ground, the trellis being about a third of the height of the tree.
My worry is that if the back trellis panel is in contact with the tree, just touching its foliage, on the tree's east side, the prevailing winds coming from the west, then the wind will flatten the tree against the trellis, thereby moving it out of position enough to disturb the root ball.
To prevent this, I could tie some cord between the side panels, the cord being up against the trunk and looped around it.
Or I could do the same kind of thing but with the back panel against the west side of the tree, the panel acting as a wind break and cord looped around the trunk as before.
I'd be grateful for any advice, but perhaps I should illustrate just how strong the winds can be.
Our first winter here we erected a polytunnel about 8' by 6' and staked to the ground. It was to overwinter the plants I'd brought with me.
The morning after the first gale force winds we looked out of the kitchen window and noticed a distinct change in the polytunnel, namely that it was nowhere to be seen. There was just some overturned staging and smashed plant pots where it used to be.
Presently there was a knock on the door and our neighbour a few doors down asked us if we'd lost a polytunnel.
It had travelled across three wide gardens and landed on his bungalow roof.
Hence my worries about the trees' chances of survival this winter.
Cheers,
Laurence

 

The area in which I live is also known for high winds. Trees here would be staked in a completely different way to the one described in the Guide so kindly posted by @shiney I'll try to explain why.

First, winds do not always come not from one direction. They change. Therefore, staking should be carried out to protect from wind damage that comes from all directions. So, what we do is as I have done in this photo...



As can be seen, each tree has three stakes, positioned at the points of an equilateral triangle, and outside of the root ball. Around the trunk, we wrap a piece of jute sacking to prevent damage. Each stake is connected to the tree using adjustable Cable Ties. They have to be adjustable to allow for the trees growth.

However, this method only really works on deciduous trees. Using this method, as in this case for thuja occidentalis, one has to be careful. If the "green" on the tree is killed, then it does not grow back. Therefore causing permanent damage.

 

Hi Shiney. Thanks for the link. I'll have a look at what the forestry commission say. Cheers, Laurence

 

Hi Sandy Ground. Thanks for the photo and the advice. I was thinking about multiple stakes. The straps would have to be very long, so I'll look online for them. But also, I wondered about using windbreak netting between the stakes. And in addition, belt and braces, to buy forty concrete blocks and place four on each root-ball, two each side of the trunk. I'd be interested to know what people think of those ideas. I've attached a photo of the offending trees. Cheers, Laurence

 

No need to do that. Use cable ties and link them together like a chain. That gives plenty adjustment if needed also.