How Good is my Photo..?? Discussion.. Any tips, Criticisms or Ideas Please..!!

Discussion in 'Photography Talk' started by Marley Farley, Jul 27, 2009.

  1. wiseowl

    wiseowl Admin Staff Member

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    Good morning Longk and N/G many thanks for answering my post,its much appreciated,I rarely use Auto.mostly Manual/ AV setting depending on the available light usually f8/f11,al servo,mostly 100/200/ISO,yesterday was 400 /ISO,don't like going to high as it creates quite a bit of noise.My camera is the Cannon 600D/lens is Tamron AF 70-300mm f/4-5.6 SP Di VC USD (EOS) ,the weather was overcast the sun was just a little in front ,the subject was very shy and took off almost immediately,but I will try to under expose by a few stops if I get the chance:smile:

    Ps
    I used to be a wedding photographer back in the dark ages my camera then was a yashica mat 124 and developed all the proofs in a dark room,must say I never under exposed the white wedding dress, but that was when cars had solid tyres:smile:
     
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    • longk

      longk Total Gardener

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      If the opportunity arises again maybe try auto mode so that you can review the EXIF info to see what the camera chose?
      I also found an online manual - you can use a spot metering mode. Can you remember what yours is set to?

      http://www.devicemanuals.eu/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/EOS_600D_Instruction_Manual_EN.pdf

      http://www.devicemanuals.eu/canon-eos-600d-camera-instruction-manual-download/860/

      http://www.devicemanuals.eu/
       
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      • NorthantsGeezer

        NorthantsGeezer Total Gardener

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        When I did my training, I was told to use the histogram. If the data was built up too far to the right, then use exposure compensation, or exposure bracketing (always worth doing to be safe), where possible.
        Thats a situation where much of the image is white though, I know your shot is different to that.
        I should add that when I speak about areas that are too far gone due to over exposure, I mean highlights that are totally blown out , which would seem to be the case with your lil birdie.
        Edit: shoot in RAW and jpeg! :) :blue thumb:
         
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        • NorthantsGeezer

          NorthantsGeezer Total Gardener

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          I agree with @longk once again, on choosing the right metering mode. I think it was 'evaluative' for a wedding dress shot.

          I found this guide to shooting BIF's (birds in flight). Its brilliant.
          It covers exposure, and indeeed ...underexposure :blue thumb: , shutter speeds, and HDR.
          In fact....pretty much everything ! :snork:
          It also says ...'luck' :biggrin: is involved to a degree, so I can rest easy now :hapfeet:
          The high shutter speeds did surprise me though, but they do use long lenses, and of course the longer the lens, the higher speed needed to keep it steady.
          Some great tips on tracking/focusing, flash, and knocking off image stabilisation whilst panning.
          http://www.digitalbirdphotography.com/8.10.html
          You may want to enter the site using the normal web address.
           
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          • wiseowl

            wiseowl Admin Staff Member

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            Good morning Longk and N/G have taken your all your info on board yesterday it was set on evaluative metering to day it will be on spot metering I also have partial metering and center-weighted average .I will shoot in Raw &Jpeg:smile:

            Thank you again my friends:ThankYou:

            ps thanks N/G I will take a look now:smile:
             
          • NorthantsGeezer

            NorthantsGeezer Total Gardener

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            You are welcome :)
            It looks like its actually an online book, which is why I suggested going in via the homepage or clicking on 'home' after the above link.
             
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            • JWK

              JWK Gardener Staff Member

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              I have tried to produce a similar shot with my Pentax DSLR on a tripod, i.e. attempting to get the black background. Apologies for the subject, I now realise I should have found something with a bit of colour rather than a great big white bloom, but my photo is more about the technique of getting the background to disappear. Initially I tried this set up:
              [​IMG]

              but the white walls are reflecting too much light, so I draped an old curtain on the door:
              [​IMG]

              The following has been cropped, white balance set to auto and tweaked the shadows in Lightroom:
              [​IMG]

              Pentax K-m in Manual mode
              f/16
              Shutter Speed 1/60
              ISO 800
              Flash compensation -1

              Full Exif info here


              That took me the best part of 30 minutes faffing about with the flash settings etc.

              Then I used my cheap Olympus compact handheld and got practically the same result first attempt. Again it's been cropped, white balanced to auto and tweaked the shadows in Lightroom:
              [​IMG]

              Olympus XZ-10 in Aperture Priority mode
              f/8
              Shutter Speed 1/500
              ISO 200
              Flash compensation -1/2

              Full Exif for the Olympus here


              So I'm struggling to achieve that crisp black background @longk , maybe you are closer to the subject? Are you in Macro mode too? Maybe you don't have bright white walls everywhere ?

              On another note I am really pleased with my little Olympus, I can do just about everything with it that the bulky DSLR can. Mainly I take portrait style snaps of my grandkids and because it has such a fast lens the flash rarely fires, so I can get up close without them pulling faces or blinding them.
               
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              • longk

                longk Total Gardener

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                Yes...............

                No............

                I don't. Here's a shot of the whole plant taken in the same spot...............
                [​IMG]
                 
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                • maria

                  maria Gardener

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                  i know nothing about photography but i was told once that grey is the best background to take pics against dont know if its true but maybe worth a try:)
                   
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                  • JWK

                    JWK Gardener Staff Member

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                    Thanks for that Keith, it explains a lot.
                     
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                    • strongylodon

                      strongylodon Old Member

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                      I have put these two up as I would like to have an idea as to why the colours are so different, both taken within seconds of each other? Which of the settings has caused the difference, just the ISO?

                      [​IMG]
                      IOS 100
                      F 5.2
                      Shut 1/8th
                      Metre centre weighted

                      [​IMG]
                      ISO400
                      F 5.2
                      1/25th
                      Metre pattern
                       
                    • JWK

                      JWK Gardener Staff Member

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                      The ISO on that second photo is 1600 according to the Exif (not 400). I doubt the ISO has caused the difference though. Another difference in the Exif is the first (brighter) photo has an "Exposure Bias of -33/100 EV" whereas the second (duller ) photo you've got "0 EV". Probably your camera applied these EV values due to the different metering mode you selected.
                       
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                      • JWK

                        JWK Gardener Staff Member

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                        Also your first (brighter) photo has White Balance: "Daylight" whilst the second (duller) photo has White Balance: "Auto". I shoot in Raw format then I can correct the white balance afterwards.
                         
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                        • NorthantsGeezer

                          NorthantsGeezer Total Gardener

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                          :dbgrtmb: Good practice @JWK
                          I would say that the combination of exposure and white balance would cause the difference as JWK said. If it was a RAW image, I would try and tweak the second one, because its a sharper image, and as JWK suggests, WB and exposure/levels can be adjusted before jpeg conversion.
                           
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                          • strongylodon

                            strongylodon Old Member

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                            Thanks for that, I (wrongly) took the ISO values off of properties but the not Exif. I have recently started using manual mode more but altering settings while trying to take wildlife pics is not always practical so I often use Programmed. I have a lot to learn. I only use Jpeg not raw as I don't have any photo editing programmes and only crop. I know I will never get the quality and sharpness of a DSLR but I'm just trying to improve, thanks both for you help.:smile:
                             
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