Just looked in my compost bin

Then just do as you are doing, Scotkat. Kathy, Garrota is ok, it does what it says on the packet, as the saying goes. :D

 

I have two old coal bunkers . You put the kitchen waste in at the top and take it out at the bottom. The compost looks good so far.

No added water or activator. No rats etc as its basically sealed - they sit on their original concrete base - but not airtight. I aslo think it lets the compost breath as the concrete is porous unlike the plastic bins

 

What about the worms?

 

Worms are only part of the chain of decomposition - there are lots of smaller organisms involved.

I suspect worms can get it but didn't see any last time I looked.

 

Hi folks. Excuse me butting in, but I just wanted to say that I bought three of those `tumblers`, one of which was filled around 8 weeks ago. We now have compost ! Cheers...freddy.

 

I have 4 dalek bins a green weely bin which I drilled holes in and compost in that plus a wormery. All have a mix of green and brown plus the most favoured horse muck which I add to each on a weekly basis. I never turn the stuff over. Just take out from the bottom and return what isn't properly composted.

 

Ah well, after reading these posts I think I am going wrong. I also have a black 'Dalek' and started it last year ... just before xmas I stopped adding stuff and it went nice and black and crumbly with a nice earthy smell. Didn't put anymore in until this Spring - just added it on top ( it wasn't even half full from before) but I see now that I should have perhaps taken the small amount out,used it, and started afresh. Perhaps I should buy another bin? ..... Val

 

I wouldn't persoanlly val, I'd just carry on as you are,the bugs that do the compsting for you will move from last years stuff into the new stuff. Unless of course you need the compost to use now!
If so, I think i'd just lift the whole bin off the heap, seperate the proper compost from the newly added stuff and then restart the bin. or if the bin has an opening at the bottom(some of daleks do) open it, scoop out as much of last years stuff as possible and allow gravity to take care of moving the new stuff down the bin!!

 

Freddy heards these tumblers are real good.

I got a bag of free recycled council compost from afriends son who works with recycle compost its very dark in colour but reall good looking stuff.

Shall give it a try anyway.

 

When composting it is important to get the heap up to temperature this helps the microorganisms to rapidly develope and break down the material,it is important to try to put all the material together in one go and not to put it on in dribs and drabs store the material in bags and when you have enough stuff put put it all together in one compost bin and it should start to heat up right away,the heap should be turned regularly to allow the uncomposted material on the outside to have its turn in the middle(this is the advantage of the compost tumbler it takes the hard work out of it).The best way to have a constant supply of compost is to have 3 bins,one with ready to use compost, one full and doing its composting process,and one in the process of being filled.If you can't manage the quantity of material to compost in this way(most people with a small garden can't)and tend to put material on in small irregular amounts I would recommend a wormery.
Below is an extract with a few composting tips.
HOW TO MAKE COMPOST
The following should be taken into account to ensure an optimum composting process:Position of the composter: Placing the container in the sun will increase the temperature inside the unit, and thus accelerate the composting process. Compost structure: To ensure good circulation, it is advisable to place a layer of twigs, cut flowers or remains of house plants at the bottom of the unit. Layers of fruit, vegetable and garden waste can then be added, mixed if possible. Do not however, fill the composter beyond 80% of its capacity.
Compost ventilation: As the composting mass is relatively moist it will condense, reducing the amount of air in it. Regular poking or stirring with a stick or garden fork will create ventilation channels in the material, helping the composting process.
WHAT CAN BE COMPOSTED?
Most garden waste, such as: Grass cuttings, hedge clippings, weeds, old plants & garden cuttings, vegetable wastes, branches & twigs (cut into pieces) and fallen leaves.
Most kitchen waste, such as: Vegetable & fruit remains, tea bags & coffee grounds, cut flower & house plant remains, crushed egg shells, fruit waste and newspaper.
WHAT CANâ??T BE COMPOSTED?
Cooked & uncooked meat, poultry & fish, cat and dog faeces, things that are not biodegradable (such as plastics & metals) and garden waste which has recently been treated with weed-killer (such as grass cuttings from a recently treated lawn).
TROUBLE SHOOTING
Unpleasant odours: When vegetation decomposes, it is normal for it to smell a bit. If the odour becomes unpleasant, the heap may have become too compacted. To solve this, use a garden fork or stick to lift the layers of composting mass â?? adding air & hence reducing odours. Compost is very dry: If the compost appears very dry, simply turn the material with a garden fork or stick, adding water while you do so.
Compost is wet and slimy: If this is the case, then perhaps too much green wastes (e.g. Grass clippings) have been added. Mix in some woody materials, straw or newspaper to solve the problem.

 

Good that walnut quite comprehensive. I also put layers of horse muck in mine. Think I already sid that in this thread sorry.
John

 

Is there an ideal size/shape/design of compost bin? I've plenty of room for 3 good sized ones.

I was thinking of building them as one unit from croncrete blocks with airgaps between each block. Then using a slatted timber front on each. They could be as big as 4ft square each.