Mr Grinch's Garden

Discussion in 'General Gardening Discussion' started by Mr Grinch, Jan 14, 2012.

  1. ARMANDII

    ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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    Seaweed solution.:coffee::thumbsup:
     
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    • Sheal

      Sheal Total Gardener

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      If the roses are in bloom Mr Grinch I would suggest the weight of the flowers are bending them over. It could also be that as young shrubs they may need a while longer to mature and for the stems to thicken up.
       
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      • Mr Grinch

        Mr Grinch Total Gardener

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        No not in bloom yet Sheel only buds. Ive sent an email to DA asking for advice. I think i may have to prune after this flush. The main stems though do seem thin an unable to hold the weight.

        Too much feed and mulch ?
         
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        • ARMANDII

          ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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          Possibly, Mr "G", if it was nitrogen rich:scratch::snorky:
           
        • Mr Grinch

          Mr Grinch Total Gardener

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          Answer from DA Roses:

          Thank you for your email and I am sorry to hear that you are concerned about some of your roses.



          All roses will take a few seasons to reach their mature shape and size. It is the habit of many of David Austin’s English Roses to have lax, arching growth rather than the stiff upright growth of the Hybrid Teas, for example. The roses are like shrubs and take a few years to mature and can sometimes throuw up long shoots in their first year. Large-flowered varieties in particular tend to get better and better over their first two or three years as the stems become thicker, providing greater support for their heavy blooms. We advise pruning them back in January/ February by no more than a half, as this is important in enabling the stems to thicken. Feeding twice each year in March/ April and again in June with a slow-release, organically-based fertilizer will also help to strengthen the stems. As you have mentioned, pruning may be required whilst the roses is still young, but you should find that as the rose matures, the stems become a lot stronger and are able to hold the blooms better.

          I hope that this helps and please don’t hesitate to contact us if we can be of further assistance.



          Kind Regards,
           
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          • Sheal

            Sheal Total Gardener

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            It would seem that DA and I agree on waiting for the roses to mature Mr Grinch. I think that feeding them in March/April and then again in June is to close together, I've always fed mine in March as they start to leaf up and then mid July giving more space between feeds. I wouldn't feed any later than July as they need time to settle down before their autumn/winter dormancy.
             
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            • Mr Grinch

              Mr Grinch Total Gardener

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              One side of the new path was laid over last few days. Slabs laid matching the other side. Will need to infill the middle with paviour bricks over next few weeks. Once slab "clonks" a bit on one side which is irritating but its not moving anywhere.

              Roses looking good.
               
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              • Mr Grinch

                Mr Grinch Total Gardener

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                Arhhh these winds have bent my Lilac. Taken 4 years to get to a decent specimen. Inches of rain followed by wind has bent it over.
                I straightened it today, heeled it in and staked it so im hoping is going to live.

                Path finished though, still flooded but drains within a few hours.
                 
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                • Mr Grinch

                  Mr Grinch Total Gardener

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                  April
                  19.jpg



                  May
                  50.jpg

                  June
                  IMG_5163.JPG IMG_5164.JPG

                  IMG_5201.JPG IMG_5202.JPG

                  IMG_5230.JPG IMG_5231.JPG

                  The plan is that not only does this help with the drainage issue at the back of the garden (underneath the brick is straight hardcore blinded with sharp sand then leveled with more sharp sand for the bricks to sit on. The water just drains through and down to the grass for dispersal), but i want a long pergola running down its length with climbers, Where the chicken run is now, when they leave us, this will be made into a border to match the other side. The pool i have for wildlife will b moved to this area and made a little bigger. Our tiny pool has been a massive success and i want to expand on it. In front of the hornbeam hedge on either side, i will plant a lower native mixed hedge, again for wildlife and spring colour. All this for the coming next few years though.

                  G
                   
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                  • Mr Grinch

                    Mr Grinch Total Gardener

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                    Just tested soil.
                    Alkaline. I thing this a big part of chlorosis issue.
                     
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                    • ARMANDII

                      ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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                      Only if you're trying to grow acid loving plants, Mr "G":dunno::snorky:
                       
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                      • Mr Grinch

                        Mr Grinch Total Gardener

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                        Not sure I agree. Alkaline soil can effect even plants that prefer a neutral soil, i.e. Most plants.

                        All I can say is that I can't grow any acid loving plants in my garden. They just die even with help. Plants that like alkaline thrive. Plants that like a neutral or neutral to slight acidic soil, that's roses, witch hazel, magnolia, astilbe, hibiscus etc although live and perform and do not die often look a bit chloritic and do not thrive despite doing everything to support them. It's always been the case here. Tested today and the soil is very alkaline which often causes these issues.

                        I have fed the effected (a lot of plants and all over the garden in different conditions) with a liquid seaweed with sequested iron. If this has an effect I will treat with a sulphur additive around the effected plants to try and balance up the soil.
                        Extremes of soil whether acidic or alkaline seriously narrows choice of plants whilst although the soil is not extremely alkaline it's certainly enough to effect certain plants.
                        Remember most composts are peat free now so alkaline in nature as is mushroom compost and well rotted manure. All of these I've used to mulch and improve soil structure, but I may have been addding to the problem.

                        I will see how it goes and report back.
                         
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                        • ARMANDII

                          ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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                          Well, there's Alkaline and then there's Alkaline, if you get my drift, Mr "G":dunno::heehee: Just how far "South" over the Alkaline border is your soil........it will have to be over 7.5 to be highly alkaline.:hate-shocked: So maybe you need a accurate test of the soil to get a real indication of just how Alkaline it is. I garden on 7.2 soil and have never had any trouble with chlorosis . If soil becomes waterlogged you can get loss of calcium, zinc, manganese, phosphorus or copper....and even over fertilisation can do the same. :wallbanging::snorky:
                           
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                          • Mr Grinch

                            Mr Grinch Total Gardener

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                            I know, so many variables that ive spent a few years narrowing down.

                            Here are the facts

                            1. Acid loving plants die
                            2. Neutral to slightly Acid loving plants perform but never look happy. Often older leafs turn chlorotic. New growth in spring healthy as is second flush growth, but turn later.
                            3. Alkaline loving plants thriving. Look exceptionally healthy.
                            4. Plants effected are all over the garden, some in heavy clay that can get water logged in winter, some in dry soil that never gets water logged and drains freely. Some in sun some in shade.
                            5. Ive only really fed in spring over past couple of years and mainly because of this issue. Has made no difference. All shrubs are mulched aswell.
                            6. When i didnt feed, it happens, when i feed it happens.
                            7. Tested soil today in all corners of the garden to a depth of around 6 inches. All results show Alkaline soil ph 7.5-8.0


                            Higher alkalinity in plants that like a neutral to slight acidic (ph 6.1-7.3) means the plants do not absorb the correct nutrients.

                            All i can do is feed with sequested iron with seaweed to see if it helps the leafs. Ive tried it in the past with other feeds like higher nitrogen and it hasnt helped. If this helps the issue then either i work with soil i have and have Lilacs and Hydrangea everywhere or a try and even the balance out a bit.

                            Never easy

                            G
                             
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                            • ARMANDII

                              ARMANDII Low Flying Administrator Staff Member

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                              My gut feeling, Mr "G" is that water logging is behind, at least partially, the problem.

                              That is high, Mr "G!!!":doh::hate-shocked: Question............do any of your neighbours have the same problem and what do they grow in their gardens??:scratch::snorky:
                               
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