Recently Over-seeded Lawn

Floranid is a good option as it works in cooler weather and release is based on soil moisture not the temperature.

 

By winter grass I was referring to Poa annua. We overseed all the time here with cool season varieties like tall fescue and ryegrass during the cooler months. Im not sure what the deal is with links to sites but I have a seed and overseeding guide which is still pretty relevant for there on my site.

 

By winter grass I was referring to Poa annua. We overseed all the time here with cool season varieties like tall fescue and ryegrass during the cooler months. Im not sure what the deal is with links to sites but I have a seed and overseeding guide which is still pretty relevant for there on my site.

 

As you see, thanks to all your respective advice re: verticutting, fertilizing and sea weeding, we are beginning to win the war here (the photo was purposely taken in the harsh midday light); despite our being careful and always choosing different paths to walk on, there are still traces (towards the centre) of yellowy grasses which turn dark mushy brown when watered and straw-yellow in full sun – not sure quite what to do about those because, if we tear them out, add topsoil and reseed, we’ll have unsightly patches in crucial areas for weeks to come. Having said that, I see those types of patches wherever I go and, obviously, there is a line to draw regarding not being over-critical and never satisfied; what would you do?

As for what you said about Poa Annua, if you look for them, there are those flowerheads all over the place and whilst the mower guillotines a lot of them (which is better than they deserve!); I suggested to my wife that she should remove them one by one until there’s none left, but she said Why don’t you do it? - I had no answer; I was reminded that in India, during the Raj, they set twenty or thirty servants on their hands and knees to cut the lawn with scissors, but those were the bad old days, so I didn't mention it.


Anyway, thank you again, and do let me know what you would do about those recalcitrant patches of discolouration.

 

Is the yellow grass in a direct straight line?

 

Yes, I suppose, loosely speaking, it kind of is:

 

Thanks.
Was there ever a stone or structured path there?

would you say it’s where you tend to walk mostly?

have you aerated the lawn, spiked with solid or hollow tines?

 

No, no path, but some small stones here and there.

We try to avoid using the same route but, inevitably, we probably do.

I will spike the areas (with solid tines - I have found hollow tines aerators a nightmare; they always get clogged up), topdress, and overseed.

As you suggested I contacted Agrigem (very friendly and helpful) who enquired about my situation and recommended Nutrigro 9-7-7 which I applied a week ago; the instructions are to re-apply in six weeks; I propose to use seaweed during that time; would you suggest more fertilisers during the next six weeks?

Hope you are well.

All best,

LAO

 

I’m keeping well thanks. Golf course is busy work as it’s been a dry spell so long old days at times as I return to water some evenings. Thankfully it’s just a mile from me and it’s looking great after the club championships.

I would apply their fertiliser but no other apart from the seaweed which I would maybe apply in 3 weeks if required. The one they pointed you too should not create too much of a flush growth which is great and what you need.

Which seaweed based conditioner did you decide on?

 

You have hit the nail on the head when you mention spiking. I just had a go and, yes, the yellow areas are far too compact AND I hear the characteristic “Crrhwk” as the tips of the fork hit stones! It probably would need rotavating to a depth of twelve inches, get rid of all the stones, and starting all over again.

Anyhow, I’ll persevere with the spiking, top-dress, and over-seed.

If it’s not too indiscrete to ask, would you post a picture of your golf course? I think we’d all enjoy that!

As for the seaweed: this it (what do you think?); they suggest twice a week (we have chosen the 50ml per litre option; at that rate, we'll soon have finished the can, so I don't mind switching if you recommend something better):

 

While awaiting your reply, I have been busy, and suitably stoical.

Having heard the aforementioned “Crrhwk”, I decided that, in view of “Aux grands maux, les grands remèdes”, I would investigate; so, dug up an area about six inches in diameter; this is what I found underneath! I then filled the hole with topsoil, a thin layer of top-dressing, a few granules of “overseeding fertilizer”, top seeded, covered with a thin layer of top-dressing, watered, and protected from birds; now, this is what it looks like; there’s no way I can do that to the entire lawn, is there? … If faut souffrir pour que la pelouse soit belle!

 

Part of the joy on domestic lawns is they all differ where as on a sports orientated venue they tend to be built for purpose which makes life easy.
Was there a layer of topsoil or was it just stone from the word go?

 

Yes, there was a layer of topsoil; are you suggesting that stones don't matter too much? That piece of news could be a great relief to us all!

 

Can’t see any info on its nutrients levels, could be my old eyes but I can’t see anything so it’s not something I would personally use. Agrigem do seaweed based conditioners so worth a chat with them again. Stick with one supplier and life is easy.
I don’t have any recent photos of the course, I’ll have to take some but here’s one from the club house that shows a section of course from 2 years back.

 

In a perfect world it would be a nice deep layer of soil but if say you have 150mm of good topsoil over fairly stoned ground it’s not too bad but dry spells probably show up quicker.