should i take cuttings from my tomato?

Discussion in 'Edible Gardening' started by ellwilll, Jun 6, 2012.

  1. Kristen

    Kristen Under gardener

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    Might they be "sports" which then come true from seed?
     
  2. JWK

    JWK Gardener Staff Member

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    To breed new varities you have to remove the male parts of the flower before it is receptive, then you can cross-pollinate from another plant you think is suitable. That's how breeders get new strains of toms, it's very fiddly of course.

    I think all open pollinated plants will tend to change over generations, unless a plant breeder is still making money from a particular varitity then they will keep the strain true to type. For varities that have dropped off the commercial seed lists (like Amish Paste) there is no incentive for anyone to bother. I understand that the heritage seed programmes attempt to select the plants that are most true to type but thats all done on an amatuer level.
     
  3. Hex_2011

    Hex_2011 Gardener

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    3-4 weeks if you put them in the fridge maybe, mine take 4-5 days on a SE facing windowsill. If they`re in flower they can take longer but what you lose on the swing you gain on the roundabout with instant flowering after they`re transplanted.


    tom cuttings.JPG .
     
  4. Kristen

    Kristen Under gardener

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    That sounds much more like what I would have expected :)
     
  5. Scrungee

    Scrungee Well known for it

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    This autumn I want to try growing some small bush varieties of tomatoes under growlights in an attempt to get some fresh homegrown winter toms. I seem to have the choice of either a late sowing or taking cuttings from the plants I already have growing in pots.

    Any ideas? Do cuttings work as well if taken from bush tomatoes compared with using 'sideshoots' from cordon toms? (I'll probably try both methods for comparison)
     
  6. JWK

    JWK Gardener Staff Member

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    Scrungee; cuttings work just the same from bush tomatoes :dbgrtmb:
     
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    • Hex_2011

      Hex_2011 Gardener

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      Scrungee, the ones in the pic are from Garden Pearl, its a bush type. I`d take cuttings from the strongest, healthiest looking plants.
       
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      • ellwilll

        ellwilll Gardener

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        well , this is strange...
        the side shoot i left on one plant has been the first to set some fruits, so that must be a slight advantage to leaving them on? its also got the same amound of flower trusses as the main stem... im also growing on a windowsill, not a greenhouse :]
         
      • ellwilll

        ellwilll Gardener

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        im also considering air-layering this side shoot to stop the fruit dropping whilst removing this sideshoot
         
      • Kristen

        Kristen Under gardener

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        I don't think the roots will be able to support the fruit (once you detach the successfully air-rooted cutting). Better to create a fresh plant first, with decent roots, and remove all flowers / fruit to facilitate it rooting quickly and then establishing well.
         
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        • ellwilll

          ellwilll Gardener

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          thanks! i might do that then :]
           
        • Scrungee

          Scrungee Well known for it

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          I've now found myself a compulsive tomato cutting taker and blame reading this thread for the fact I now let tomato sideshoots grow to the right size for cuttings before removing them and I've got coffee jars full of rooting shoots all over the place. If we get an Indian Summer they might even do better than the very early sown toms they've been taken from that have very few, small trusses on them, each with very fruits set.
           
        • Hex_2011

          Hex_2011 Gardener

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          Its all good practice for next season, just sow a few of each variety around february time indoors and they`ll be big enough to take loads of cuttings when everyone else is busy sowing seeds. Cuttings grow a lot quicker than seeds and they have identical traits to the parent plant so choose the best of the early bunch :)
           
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