So Many, But Which One?????

If it was me, I would clear and remove all the existing soil and start over again. If I was going down the route of screening the existing soil, then I would hire a mini digger with a trommel screen bucket attachment as below.

Lloyd Star Screening Bucket - Soil @ 18mm (youtube.com)

I have seen these in operation but on larger excavators, very impressive how quick the soil passes through when the soil is dry and clean of any grass.

 

We used a "land rake" bucket on a mini digger (1.5tonne) to clear stones and brambles from a neglected lawn. Definitely saves tons of effort!

 

You make very good points; I am taking them on board.

As far as 100% rye is concerned, I must admit that I find that the Wimbledon lawns have lost their erstwhile magic, but I understand that resilience is key due to the way they play nowadays.

With all the various advice, I have a pretty good idea of how I am going to tackle this project. Hard work does not frighten me – those who have followed my “Bamboo” saga will know this.

One thing still concerns me: I am told that no matter how much you get rid of the old turf and work the ground, a great deal of weeds, bad grasses, and poa annua WILL remain and sprout back up at the first opportunity … and that therefore, I must use a weedkiller such as glyphosate herbicide … but I am not sure about the timings re: application, giving it time to work, and then how long to wait before reseeding without any remnant of the herbicide interfering with germination … can anyone share their experience of using and timing herbicides, and exactly which one I should use?

 

Glyphosate is fine most of year. It is inactivated in contact with soil, but I'd still leave a couple of weeks before reseeding. It can take up to 6 weeks for things to die off. Triclopyr (SBK) is good for woody weeds, and doesn't harm established grass, but needs 6 weeks before reseeding. 2-4-D/dicamba is good for standard herbaceous weeds (and also doesn't harm established grass) but again it's not recommended to seed immediately after. It is better to use when weeds are young, before flowering.

 

Glyphosate does do a good job, but as it is only absorbed by leaves, any seeds that remain will still germinate and grow. Once sprayed it will take 2-3 weeks before you notice weeds are dying.
So it would be best to do at least two applications leaving a few weeks between to see if more seeds germinate.
As mentioned above, glyphosate breaks down on contact with soil, so you can plant a couple of days after application if needed.

 

@LawnAndOrder you probably know this already but if not please be aware that there are real health and environmental concerns about Glyphosate, 2,-4D and Dicamba. Many countries have actually banned the use of Glyphosate.

 

I agree that the use of any herbicides is going to have some downsides - some more serious that others.
Many folk aren't aware that cereal farmers use glyphosate on cereal crops such as wheat, oats etc when they are nearly ripe.
The entire crop is sprayed with glyphosate using a rig sprayer which kills all of it, then it's harvested and ends up in our bread, breakfast cereals etc etc

 

When I spray, in addition to John's advice above to use on a clam, cloudy day (so it doesn't dry out before it can be absorbed), I also set the spray to small droplets rather than a fine spray to minimize drift.

 

Thank you for that; obviously, I had not understood how herbicides work and thought they targeted weeds as well as their seeds, or anything else left undetected. What I had meant (quoted directly above) was that, having got rid of the turf and turned over the ground, I would then use herbicide to kill off any remaining seeds so that, at least for one or two seasons, there would be no poa annua in our garden … but you have now made it clear that, used that way, glyphosate would be ineffective.


Presumably, the correct way would be to (*get rid of the turf, turn over the earth, etc., then WAIT for any weeds to come up and only then spray them with glyphosate, pick off the resulting debris, then wait at least two weeks*) before sowing.


Having left it too late for sowing this autumn (I could not possibly in the time left get rid of the turf, turn over the soil, flatten it, import topsoil, level the whole thing, etc., for September sowing), I plan to sow in mid-April 2025, having done (*…*) between 15th February and 15th April 2024 ; does that sound feasible to you?

 

Yes

I do use Weedol Pathclear on my block paved drive on occasion.
That does kill all plant growth and prevent seed germination, but the soil remains toxic for about 6 months after application.
I think glyphosate is the best route.
The strongest form of glyphosate is glyphosate 360, many brands are available.
Do check up on how to prepare the soil for sowing grass seed - especially the final raking and levelling.

 

The EU only gave 10-year approval for glyphosate use (for those member states wishing to continue with it) on the basis that the above practice was discontinued. It always amazes me that it was ever allowed, yet careful use by gardeners is illegal. Well, it is here.....

 

Remember stones help to aerate the soil and also helps with drainage depending what the soil is being used for. I made the mistake of doing this for one of my flower beds. Back went the stones after the first down pour.
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