Thermostatically controlled propane gas heater

I was thinking of raising the heater up (as recommended in instructions) - no point in heating right down to floor level, securing it in position and considering running the copper sensor wire through something like round plastic conduit to prevent mechanical damage.

P.S. I added the P.S. bit to my last after you'd replied, about how to turn off the pilot light other than using the valve on the cylinder.

 

"I also cannot find any method of turning off the pilot light other than turning off the gas at the cylinder?"

Pretty sure mine is the same (well, its what I've always done). Probably saves a few quid on another knob/valve. You could, perhaps, just blow the pilot out? that should turn off via the "cut out"

 

Thanks for all your help Kristen, it's going 'live' tonight with a scattering of max/mins at different levels.

The next thing to get my head around will be how to use a thermostatic gas heater in conjunction with a backup thermostatic electric heater and automatic window vents without the electric heater taking over or finding something turning itself up, opening the windows and chucking heat out of them all night - dual heating rather than duel heating as Mrs Scrungee said.

 

A word of warning - if peering at the burner wondering why it's not apparently burning, don't worry as it will suddenly come on and take both your eyebrows & eyelashes off - saves shaving them off.

 

Got the hang of using it fairly quickly, and having one of these max/min thermometers where the 'external' sensor can be located down on the ground next to the heater thermostat was useful. 11deg at floor level, 14 deg on the staging and 17 deg at top shelf level was a typical range of temps.

As I suspected the heater turned itself up until the autovents opened the windows and then stayed on, so I now disable the autovents overnight to save on fuel. Think I'll wait until I get my new greenhouse planned for later this year before playing around with re-siting the sensor .

 

It would be interesting to do a cost test between leccy,gas and paraffin under the same conditions over the course of a week.
I have tried to do this on leccy and paraffin just to keep frost free last year at -16 leccy I estimated was over a £1.50/24hr---paraffin only managed to get up to -6 at was £1/24hr.
This was a small fan blow air heater V a twin burner Eltex.
Under normal conditions the electric is more economic and efficient I would like to know how this compares with propane.
Next spring I would love to aim at min.+15c but I dont think it would be cost effective unless I had a purpose built hot house,I cant afford to keep "our" house at that temperature day and night!

 

I got mine brand new incl. delivery for £80. A secondhand one identical to the one I purchased (but without regulator & hose) was on ebay at the time http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PROPANE-G...arden_Hearing_Cooling_Air&hash=item4163cd7613 and I've just checked and bidding reached £57.12 + £9.99 P&P = £67.11, which with a regulator (£6.99) & hose (£3.99) from GoOutdoors would bring it up to £78.09. That 'saving' of £1.91 would not cover a GO £4.95 delivery charge, nor my fuel for diverting to one whilst nearby.

Which could explain why that heater has been re-listed.

 

As it suddenly goes from pilot light to full on, it's also rather disconcerting when this happens as you're standing astride the heater (situated on narrow path between staging either side) as the flames burst out the top and lick around your crotch - good job I'm so tall!

 

Oh I wish there was a pic of that.............!